The Factory Goes Gluten-Free

The Pitch

When a restaurant occupies a massive space spanning two floors on student/tourist-heavy Crescent Street, it is natural to try to draw as wide an audience as possible to fill so many seats.  With a plethora of features already under Wienstein & Gavino's belt – 5 à 7 special, prix fixe lunch, late night menu – the twenty-year-old Italian juggernaut recently expanded its repertoire with a gluten-free menu.  Tonight we accepted an invitation to sample the latter while enjoying the first genuinely warm weekend of the season on the busy street-side terrace.

tagged:  CATCH SOME SUN

The Food

Back in late 2013, the self-titled pasta factory went under the scalpel with the introduction of a new brand image and revamped menu at the hands of itinerant chef Giuseppe Sacchetti – who moved on to other endeavors shortly after.  The gluten-free menu acts as a subset of the full offering with enough options for everyone; antipastis and insalatas are followed by secondis, pizzas and pastas (choice of spaghetti or penne).

Antipasti

Antipasti

$17

$17

Polpo alla Griglia

"grilled octopus, lemon-pepper glaze, nduja-cannellini bean ragout".  Beautifully-seasoned mollusc arms – a tad overcooked – are paired with tender/popping, earthy beans; a standout item on the menu.

Starter

Starter

$12

$12

Insalata Caprese

"tomatoes, fior di latte, basil pesto, olive oil".  A classic Italian salad that's been done to death, this rendition did away with the basil leaves while adding pesto sauce; nothing to write home about.

Main

Main

$17.50

$17.50

Pizza Giardiniera

"tomato sauce, peppers, zucchini, onions, eggplant, oven-dried tomatoes, mozzarella, ricotta, olive oil".  The roasted eggplant stole the show with its natural sweetness; alas the crust was hard-ish and lacked puffiness.

Main

Main

$24

$24

Spaghetti con Gamberi Macchiato

"shrimp, garlic, chili peppers, butter, white wine, parsley, cherry tomatoes".  A delicious and zesty sauce mixed in not-quite-al-dente pasta followed the overarching pattern of great recipes falling a tad short on execution.

The Verdict

We have been to W&G enough times over the years to see a clear amelioration in the offering since its rebirth in late 2013.  The food is a far cry from those early uninspired pastas doused in sauce that earned it the unofficial nickname of "Montreal's Olive Garden".  Today we consider it a dependable Italian option downtown, although the kitchen still needs to tighten up on details.  With its new menu, this longstanding ristorante has broadened its appeal by tapping into the gluten-free craze.

tagged:  PLAN B.

Price per person:  $35.25