Unleash the Dragon

The Pitch

Mile-End's Thazard had been on my radar since it opened in late 2014.  What started as an intriguing Japanese bistro resurrecting French-style cart service seems to have changed direction about a year ago.  An ownership shuffle also saw the operation turn into a Pan-Asian fusion concept.  After a pleasant dinner I had there on the house last month, it immediately came to mind when a friend of mine felt like a fun Asian place for our next outing.

The Mood

The restaurant's layout runs narrow and deep, comprising a handful of tables by the entrance followed by a bar and communal counter-height tables running against its length.  The décor is industrial/sleek featuring dark tones without being too serious; a neon dragon silhouette and painted chicken mural add a playful touch.  The space was nearly full on this Saturday night with multiple groups of young diners trying to outsing each other with birthday chants.

tagged:  SPEAK UP!

The Food

Thazard's rebooted menu focuses mostly on Japanese specialties with some scattered Pan-Asian additions.  Izakaya favorites such as ramen, gyozas, karaage and tatakis sit beside Chinese General Tao chicken, Taiwanese baos and Thai fried rice, to name a few.  The fusion element comes from the incorporation of foreign elements such as tahini, horseradish and beef brisket.

Starters come in small plates and can be easily shared by a group.  Finally, this tavern-of-sorts boasts a serious mixology program; the intricate cocktail list has something for everyone, while the barman is perfectly capable of concocting something customized for more discerning boozehounds.

Cocktail

Cocktail

$10

$10

Fredo

An appetite-whetting aperitif with the right balance of sweetness and bitterness.

Starter

Starter

$5

$5

Chicken Gyozas

Slightly-crispy stuffed wonton pockets with a forgettable tahini-based dipping sauce.

Starter

Starter

$9

$9

Chicken Karaage

A tiny bowl of tasty popcorn-sized fried chicken bits with another passable dip.

Starter

Starter

$9.50

$9.50

Fried Calamari

Lightly-battered rings with a ginger/garlic vinaigrette and out-of-place kimchi.

Starter

Starter

$16

$16

Spicy Salmon Tartare

A beautifully-creamy fish patty was given a hearty boost by adding avocado.

Main

Main

$14

$14

Beef Brisket Bao Buns

Perfectly-fluffy with crunchy pickled cabbage and some background ssamjang heat.

Main

Main

$10.50

$10.50

Thazard Slaw

A papaya/mango salad – not really a coleslaw – full of vibrant colors and bright, fresh flavours.  Along with the steamed buns, this could have been my meal!

Main

Main

$22

$22

Surf & Turf Chirashi

A robust bowl of calamari, shrimp, Peking duck – an intruder here – and veggies.  Generally lacking in flavour; the Ponzu sauce was not enough to make a difference.

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING ORIGINAL DRINKS

The Service

Upon stepping in, we were promptly seated at our table and handed our food and drink menus, after which time stood still for a while.  Nobody came to see us for what felt like an eternity; a polite complaint had to be placed.  Our woes would not end there however; plates arrived in a bizarre order – food before drinks, our tartare at the end…  Ultimately we were offered desserts on the house; at least there was admission of wrongdoing.

tagged:  SOMETIME TODAY PLEASE

The Verdict

From my two visits this summer – one comped, one paid out-of-pocket – I arrive at the same conclusion; the concept and offering are fresh and the food is (mostly) a hit, with some uneven dishes.  Otherwise, prices are reasonable while the service needs some polishing.

By morphing from an Izakaya to an Asian tavern, Thazard has joined a new breed of modern, Asian/fusion eateries such as Cho, Orange Rouge, Les Street Monkeys and Nom Nom.  Although the word thazard refers to a kingfish of the mackerel family, a dragon unleashed is more fitting for this transformation!

tagged:  PLAN B.

Price per person:  $25.38