To the Moon and Back

The Pitch

In my last review, we covered a Michelin-starred restaurant.  Today we're going a notch lower; the guide's Bib Gourmand, awarded to establishments serving high-quality food at moderate prices.

The recipient is Rôtisserie La Lune, the sister restaurant of Vin Mon Lapin, which has won the highest level of awards and accolades in the country.  Located a stone's throw away (if you have a strong arm) along Little Italy's Saint-Zotique Street, a reservation here has been difficult to obtain since opening in late 2024.

tagged:  BETTER RESERVE

The Mood

The sun-drenched interior bears the touch of designer extraordinaire Zébulon Perron.  Complete with warm tones, banquettes and wood paneling, the 70-seater evokes brasseries of yore with a contemporary touch.  For a place known as much for its food as its wine list, I was not surprised to see a flocking of people at and around the bar, including chef/co-owner Marc-Olivier Frappier in deep conversation with patrons.

tagged:  BAR SCENE

The Food

At its heart, La Lune is an ode to Quebec's classic chicken rotisserie.  But of course, given who's behind the operation here, the level is dialed all the way up.  The birds are slow roasted to perfection on the spit, resulting in crispy golden skin and juicy flesh underneath.

Served with meaty fries and masterful homemade gravy, this is best-in-class material worthy of the most indulgent pleasure.  The menu reads like a celebration of poultry; even the gravy is made from chicken while the spit also roasts duck and guinea fowl.  We started with hot onion buns, a classic chicken soup with homemade ravioli and cheese-pull-perfect Louis d'Or croquettes, all of which shined.

The chicken is served in a large family-style platter, perfect for sharing.  I'm glad we listened to our waitress and got the half bird for our party 2; I was initially eyeing the whole animal for $62.  Sitting at $37, the half portion was more than enough and yields one of the best values for your money out there.

Of course, no meal is perfect throughout in my world.  My bloody Caesar was a watery pink while the unlimited coleslaw was a tad salty and lacking in acidity.  These easily-forgivable quibbles were quickly forgotten when a classic carrot cake hit the table and ended dinner on a high, decadent note.

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING GREAT VALUE

The Service

The personnel at La Lune threads the line between serious and informal: traditionally attired in button-down shirts and aprons à la French brasserie yet casual and approachable.  The menu and specials are clearly explained and portions well described as previously mentioned.

Help with wine was given, wait times were decent and presence felt and appreciated.  The bathrooms too were awarded some kind of accolade by the Cashmere toilet-paper company, as made evident by a plaque in the men's room (I'm being serious!).

tagged:  IMPECCABLE W.C.

The Verdict

As far as poulet à la broche goes, it does not get better than what La Lune is dishing out.  This standout is one of many reasons the New York Times recently labeled Montreal "rotisserie chicken heaven".  The other one that comes to mind is McKiernan, which incidentally belongs to Frappier's previous bosses.

These two gems have elevated a Quebec staple and brought it to its upper echelon or, er, to the moon and back.  What they also have in common is an outcome which exceeded initial ambition.  What started as a rôtisserie de quartier went far beyond that, drawing locals and foodies as well as tourists, not to mention an engagement party in the private basement tonight.

tagged:  SOLID

4

Price per person:  $29.83