The New Face of Manakish

The Pitch

Manakish hold a very special place to an Arab such as myself.  The topped-then-baked Levantine flatbreads are so ubiquitous in that part of the world, they can be enjoyed for breakfast, lunch or as a late-night bite.

Long dominated by cheap, quick-serve joints selling them for $2-3 dollars each, the Montreal manakish scene has more recently been elevated thanks to newcomers taking an artisanal approach to this staple.  One such operation is Milton Park's Ô Four, which recently celebrated its third year in operation.

The Mood

Manakish joints are often called feren in Lebanon, which literally translates to "oven" (hence the name au four).  Those are often holes in the wall consisting of no more than a counter and an oven, often manned by a single person, where diners grab their man'ousheh – single form – to go.

Ô Four is a larger operation than that; its dining room can sit 30-40 diners and is run by a handful of employees.  A favorite of the local diaspora, the crowd here leans more Lebanese than McGill Ghetto student.

tagged:  COMMUNITY PICK

The Food

The manakish here come in two forms: first, you have the traditional open-faced version – often but mistakenly referred to as "Lebanese pizza".  Then you have signature creations with atypical toppings which come rolled.

My friend and I went fully classic today with three flat items: za'atar cheese, kafta cheese and sujuk cheese – that's a lotta cheese in retrospect!  The secret to a good man'ousheh is to prepare the dough fresh on demand and the type of oven.  Ô Four scores on both of those thanks to their custom-built gas oven.

The result is a bread with a crispy rim and soft interior, solid enough to hold up when cut into slices.  They are also very generous with the toppings such as the meat and cheese, which explains and justifies the $10-15 price range for their premium items.  All told, this oven easily makes my top three manakish in town.

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING

The Service

When it comes to quality manakish, one needs to practice patience.  Do not expect a grab-reheat-and-go experience à la Al-Taib and other fast-serve counters.  Stretching out the dough, topping it and cooking it on demand will set you back a few well-deserved minutes.  So go ahead and enjoy your company while your order gets prepared.

The Verdict

I initially found out about Ô Four from famous – in Lebanon – YouTuber Anthony Rahayel (a.k.a. NoGarlicNoOnions).  He gave it his thumbs up, which convinced me to try it out two years back.  Clearly owner Bashir Khairallah knows his stuff.  He was the original founder behind popular Lebanese brunch spot Le Professeur.

Speaking of Brunch, Ô Four suggests an all-you-can-eat formula on weekends, which I have yet to try.  More recently, the serial restaurateur added to his arsenal with the opening of Canada's first Malak al Tawouk, one of Lebanon and the Middle East's most successful fast-casual franchises.  Located right next door, Malak's virality and incessant lineups earlier this year must have been a boon for Ô Four.

Thanks in part to this bakery, the man'ousheh and Lebanon's imprint on Montreal's culinary scene have come a long way since those dreaded $2 manakish.

tagged:  SOLID