Japanese Minimalism

The Pitch

Japanese culture is associated with restraint and collective responsibility.  While some of Montreal's Japanese restaurants go for grandeur, opulence and scale, others choose to follow the minimalistic path.  There is no better example of this than the Plateau's Noren.

Open since 2016, this humble eatery has managed the impossible task of surviving this long and achieving popularity, all while maintaining a subdued presence.  Its inconspicuous locale can very easily be missed, and its social media relies on simple photos (not a single reel or influencer collaboration – respect!).

The Mood

The word noren refers to traditional Japanese fabric dividers, hung vertically to provide privacy, an ironic name given that "separation" is the last thing you will experience here.  Noren may just be THE smallest restaurant in town, with seating for at most 6 people at the counter and another 6 along the windows.

Not only will you rub elbows with other patrons; you will also come in close contact with staff behind the counter.  Everything is squeezed and out in the open, reminding me of house parties in tiny Paris apartments when I lived there.  The place was full (duh!) at noon so my friend and I had to wait a few minutes for a couple stools to free up.

tagged:  CLAUSTROPHOBIA ANYONE? PACKED LIKE SARDINES

The Food

Noren is neither a sushi bar, an izakaya or a ramen joint.  The kitchen focuses on casual street-food staples served out of bowls or plates.  The menu lists a dozen items split between small bites and larger plates, with a couple desserts and homemade drinks thrown in (this is a no-alcohol operation).

My friend went for the okonomiyaki – cabbage pancake with mushrooms – which was nicely fluffy but excessively drowned in sauce.  For my part, I tried the oden, a deconstructed version of the popular hot pot containing daikon, eggs, fish cakes and noodles sitting in a dashi broth.  The plating is gorgeous in its simplicity with each component executed to perfection.

We also helped ourselves to a side of yodufu – silken tofu – and nasu agebitashi – fried eggplant.  Both were exemplar in silky texture and highlighted with sweet/savoury toppings such as yuzu/bonito for the tofu and mirin/dashi for the eggplant.  With mains in the $12-$18 range (save for a $22 salmon/rice/dashi bowl), Noren offers great bang for the buck considering the quality and expertise put forth.

tagged:  GREAT VALUE

The Service

Noren is open quite literally 12 hours a week; four lunch services of 3 hours each from Wednesday to Saturday.  With such a tight operation one can expect knowledgeable and efficient staff, which is exactly what we experienced.

Spots are quickly cleaned up, orders taken soon after, and plates arriving with good pacing.  That said, you do not feel rushed one bit; this is not a table-turning exercise.  If anything, there's a welcoming, "feel at home" sentiment throughout.

The Verdict

From its small space and limited opening hours to its simple menu and subtle online presence, Noren clearly embraces Japanese minimalism and restraint.  Its longevity over a decade proves that success and popularity can be achieved via respect for tradition and trend-eschewing, ingredient-forward cuisine.

tagged:  SOLID

4

Price per person:  $21