High-Concept Japanese Fusion

The Pitch

If the 2010s were marked by the proliferation of speakeasies or underground bars, the 2020s are seeing an uptick in the same, but for restaurants.  Examples such as Sushi by Scratch and Mercuri 109 – both of which have closed – relied on exclusivity and notoriety rather than a marquee address and publicity.

More recently, two restaurant groups opened "hidden" fine-dining operations with Estelle and Nama Omakase.  The former, owned by the Beatrice folks, occupies a tucked-away spot behind a Saint-Henri parking lot.  The latter lies on the ground floor of Google's HQ in the International District.  While not exactly clandestine, the place has little signage outside and is concealed thanks to small windows.

I was invited here for the grand opening last summer, where folks got to sample some drinks and small bites as well as enjoy the décor; but tonight I would return (uninvited) to get a fuller idea of this self-labeled Japanese/French concept.

The Mood

Stepping into Nama sets one in a beautiful industrial space featuring a concrete ceiling matched with similar columns surrounding old brick walls.  The gray/brown palette from those is complemented with black tables, chairs, bar stools and a centerpiece bar.

The soundtrack for the night consisted of electronic/downtempo remixes of 90s/00s R'n'B tracks.  The tempo and volume level were perfect for a trendy-yet-upmarket spots such as this; discernible without being loud.  The dimly-lit, modern dining room was sparsely-occupied when my wife and I showed up for our 8PM reservation; but things shortly picked up with most tables and bar spots filling up.

The crowd largely consisted of couples, save for a big group of work colleagues.  Although those can be boisterous, this cohort was rather quiet.  But I could not help and notice they were all engaged in a game of Kahoot!  Is this what our society has come down to?  Do we really need extra entertainment when dining out at such a distinguished spot?

tagged:  EYE FOR DESIGN GROOVY TUNES

The Food

As the name suggests, Nama proposes an omakase – chef's choice – menu consisting of fourteen courses, only served at the bar.  At $200, it lies north of what I am comfortable spending on a meal; we opted to go à la carte on a table instead.  The menu contains Japanese-and-more specialties in three categories: cold or hot starters, sushi and mains.  Although we wanted to try at least one sushi order, the prices there too were prohibitive - $7.5 per individual nigiri, $6 per individual maki.

Our two first starters were gorgeous, intricately composed but did not fully work for me.  A ring of raw scallops circled a leche de tigre marinade, which was drizzled at the table; followed by a red seabream tataki with X.O. sauce and finely-chopped shallots with jalapenos.  Although delicious, I thought both dishes went too far in garnish which overpowered the raw seafood.

Our hot starter completely turned things around.  A thin panko-crusted eggplant katsu topped with a frisée/tomato salad was so silky/sweet on the inside and uber-crunchy on the outside; the first five-star dish of the year.

Our two mains also excelled, starting with a mushroom/truffle mazemen noodle dish which, once mixed, delivered the ultimate burst of umami.  Finally, a braised galbi-jjim substituted the habitual short ribs for ribeye.  Served next to mashed potatoes and topped with fennel strips and a jus, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender but could have used more seasoning.

The Service

While I cannot say I discerned a heavy French influence in the food at Nama (it felt more international with Peruvian and Korean touches for instance), the service and presentation do come off as decidedly French.

From listing comma-separated ingredients on menu descriptions to serving sake in a wine glass and drizzling sauces at your table, the haute cuisine trademarks are there.

Waiters are sharply dressed in black and carry themselves seriously yet in a helpful and chatty matter.  Ours – a young, trilingual male – was friendly, polished and very helpful in navigating the multitude of drink options from classic/signature cocktails, sakes and (mostly French) wines.

The Verdict

Backed by the Carma Hospitality group – Le Bird Bar, Seasalt, Dinette Marcella, etc. – and run by a front/back of the house team with Paul Bocuse, a Michelin-starred restaurant and Les Chefs! on their resume, Nama is set up for success.  Its situation in the city's International District should help find the deep pockets required to afford its sushi and omakase prices.

On the other hand, I found their non-sushi menu very-reasonably priced.  Dinner for two cost $235 before taxes for five dishes in total and two drinks each.  Considering the restaurant's caliber, premium ingredients and intricate cuisine, I'll take that price any day.  For anyone looking to spend even less, consider their late-night, three-course menu for $65.

In closing, I cannot rightfully attribute a final verdict without trying their sushi, even though I loved most of what I ate tonight.  That will have to wait for a return visit, after saving up a little…

tagged:  DESERVES A RETRY

Price per person:  $58.83