Park Avenue Pizzazz

The Pitch

Formally known as Milton Park, the neighborhood lying north of Sherbrooke Street between the McGill University campus and Saint-Laurent Boulevard is more commonly referred to as the McGill Ghetto.  During my McGill days and as a resident of the area between 1997 and 2004, dining choices were limited to student-oriented coffee shops, chains and fast food operations.

The first player to break out of this mold was Pullman, a stylish Park Avenue wine bar serving elevated tapas-style dishes.  After more than a decade in business, the principals behind Pullman opened up Moleskine in 2016, on the very same block.

The Mood

Situated in a 1920s, Gothic Revival building, Moleskine is composed of two distinct areas, each with its own menu.  A casual eatery on the ground floor features bar-height tables and an open kitchen, while the mezzanine upstairs offers a formal dining experience.

Designed by Bruno Braën – also a co-owner – the industrial-chic interior makes use of multiple textures and fabrics along with a mishmash of table and chair styles.  Both floors were about three-quarters full on this Thursday evening; with a young-ish crowd sipping and eating the night away over a 90s soundtrack containing a few questionable tracks – I could do without the Backstreet Boys at this point in my life!

The Food

The upstairs menu consists of a prominent pizza list followed by a handful of choices for each of starters, mains and desserts.  The wine list leans towards old world bottles while a short cocktail sheet features classics with an Italian touch.

Starter

Starter

$9

$9

Green Salad

A simple yet attention-grabbing salad consisted of a perfectly-dressed and seasoned medley of green and purple leaves.

Starter

Starter

$14

$14

Heirloom Tomatoes

Red, yellow and green tomato wedges sat next to a deconstructed panzanella of sorts; another fantastic salad!

Main

Main

$18

$18

Tagliatelle

The only underwhelming dish of the night was a lump of pasta topped with a flat tomato sauce, barely-present parmesan shavings and fresh basil leaves.

Main

Main

$24

$24

Hochelaga Pizza

I am generally not a fan of "white" pizza but this one – a Mornay (cheesy béchamel) sauce and smoked meat combination on thin, chewy crust – was marvelous!

Dessert

Dessert

$9

$9

Strawberry Sundae

Dinner concluded with a swirl of smooth ice cream topped with strawberry/balsamic syrup and crunchy pistachios; yum!

The Service

Upon our arrival, we were seated at a table in the back, next to the staff's wine station and removed from the rest of the mezzanine.  With the number of empty tables throughout the evening, I was a little surprised by this odd assignment.  That aside, our waitress took excellent care of us; from going over the day's specials to helping us pick pairings from the wine list – which features many private imports.

The Verdict

In the year following its opening, Moleskine managed to wow the city's critics while making several of Eater Montreal's popular "best-of" lists.  Add to that Pullman's longevity and the upcoming stand in the much-anticipated Time Out Market, and this group of restaurateurs will be around for years to come.

As for me, I could not arrive at a final verdict.  Although I did enjoy the delicious food, it was hard to narrow it down as casual versus gourmet.  I also was not able to get a feel for the place's ambiance from my secluded table.  While a second visit is certainly warranted, there is no denying this pizzeria-and-more has a lotta pizzazz!

tagged:  DESERVES A RETRY

Price per person:  $32.50