Ramadan Classics Elevated

The Pitch

Although the Montreal restaurant scene is in full swing with new concepts popping up at an unrelenting pace, not many of those can be described as innovative.  On the lower end, tried-and-tested burger, shawarma and French taco formulas dominate.  At the upper end of the scale, we still see a preference for small plates blurring the lines between starters and mains with an emphasis on terroir and natural wines.

In between those two ends is a space where not many venture, but was successfully pierced by Mezzmiz.  The manager-and-chef duo behind this Lebanese eatery left behind a modest restaurant empire in Beirut and created the first iteration of Mezzmiz at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2021.  A ghost kitchen to start with, the new project would unveil its signature meze trays composed of an assortment of mini dips, salads and mains.

A common friend would put me in touch with founder Nadim, who gifted my family a meal on the house, quickly turning me into a fan.  Yes, Middle Eastern food is rampant in Montreal, but nobody did it like these folks.  Their blend of traditional recipes with modern cooking techniques and gorgeous presentations – what they like to call Beiruti cuisine – was a game changer.

Since that time, Mezzmiz went through two physical relocations, first occupying a stall in Time Out Market before finally landing with their own bricks-and-mortar shop on Crescent Street.  Along the way their offering expanded, adding mezzwhiches (sandwiches), mezzbowls (rice/salad bowls) and mezzmeals (meals to go), all of which I got to sample first due to my growing relationship with Nadim.

Anyone who follows me closely on Instagram knows of my frequent visits here – almost always on the house – and my constant raving of everything these folks put forth.  When earlier this month, I got wind of their iftar special during Ramadan, I decided to drop in with my wife and kids unannounced.  Since I prefer my reviews to stem from incognito visits, I would finally be able to objectively share my thoughts in writing.

However, I mistakenly assumed that Nadim would not be here at night on the weekend, so I was "caught" in the end.  But, I still paid my bill and proceeded with my review unencumbered.  That said, I will omit the "service" section below, as is my custom when invited somewhere; since I may or may not have gotten preferential treatment.

The Mood

The Crescent Street locale is small and intimate, just enough to fit thirty diners or so.  To the right is the ordering counter which gives a view into the busy kitchen, manned by a whopping team of ten cooks on this busy Saturday night.  To the right is the dining room, decked out in Mezzmiz's signature branding composed of dark blue, white and some yellow.

Thick-topped mahogany tables and shelves carrying imported pantry essentials complement the otherwise-Mediterranean color palette.  While there were some empty seats tonight, between the crowd dining in, orders to-go and delivery drivers, the room was certainly abuzz.

tagged:  BRING THE KIDS

The Food

During Ramadan, Mezzmiz is offering a set menu for $29 composed of every observing Lebanese's favorites from home.  Anyone who grew up in the region equates iftar (breaking the fast) with dates, lentil soup and jallab (date juice with molasses and rose water) to begin with.  The soup is super silky and fragrant; I would have liked it more lemony so a wedge on the side would have been welcome.

The jallab is sweet, refreshing and musky.  Served with those are Mezzmiz's famous hummus (with bread) and bright fattoush salad, which excelled as always.  The main dish changes daily but remains within the lane of Levantine comfort foods.  Today we had two choices: riz a djej (fragrant rice with chicken and nuts) and maqluba (a renversé of rice cooked with ground beef and eggplants).

Of course, we tried both with generous scoops of the accompanying yogurt and immediately felt the wave of nostalgia and aromas of childhood.  Offered on the house were a couple of extras: cheese rolls and kibbeh balls, both of which were a delight although the latter could have been crunchier on the outside.

The prix fixe ended with a mouhalabieh (milk pudding flavoured with rose water and topped with pistachio) for dessert.  Of course, nothing at Mezzmiz is without a signature touch; chef Dory Masri added richness and texture to this classic with a caramel sauce and a mini bird's nest of crispy kadayif (vermicelli).

tagged:  TABLE D'HÔTE

The Verdict

To mezzmiz is to enjoy small bites in a group setting, which is what Mezzmiz embodied in its first iteration.  Since then, they have delivered on that promise and then some, adding to their offering and possibly expanding outside of Quebec soon.

Yes, I have been with them since day one and developed bonds over the years; but I can confidently state – with no conflict of interest – that their brand of Lebanese cuisine has no comparison in town.  Their unique mix of authenticity-meets-refinement earns them the self-titled "posh casual" label.

Purists may frown on some of the more unorthodox takes such as their teeny pita bits, finely-chopped fattoush, whole garlic cloves in the hummus, caramel in the mouhalabieh, etc.  But to me, that is a narrow-minded view which misses the essence of – and innovation behind – this modern Beiruti kitchen.

tagged:  FAVORITE

5

Price per person:  $29