A Quebec Staple Perfected

The Pitch

When the Joe Beef folks decided to close their next-door McKiernan Luncheonette about a decade ago to expand into its space, many lamented the loss of what was considered the list-topping restaurant's affordable side.

It was not long before these mourners' prayers were answered; in 2018 it was announced that McKiernan would reopen in a spacious locale along the Lachine Canal in nearby Côte-Saint-Paul.  Having been here countless times (clearly, I'm a fan), I did not think twice before suggesting it to my group of friends for dinner tonight.

Not only have none of them been before, but it is also conveniently located next to a highway exit, making it quite accessible to both folks coming from Nuns' Island and Laval (while I hopped over from adjacent Westmount).  To top things off, free parking is aplenty since the building houses many offices in the daytime.

tagged:  TAKE THE CAR

The Mood

Located on the second floor of a former industrial edifice, McKiernan boasts an interior like no other in town.  The massive loft runs the width of the building and affords unobstructed views over the canal and Mont-Royal behind it through its bay windows.

The choice of décor mixes industrial with Joe Beef/Liverpool House's signature brand of New England paraphernalia.  The ambiance is warm, festive and loud; every one of the many tables was taken – walk-ins have been warned!

The Food

With names such as Frédéric Morin and Derek Dammann behind the kitchen, one knows they're in for a treat at McKiernan.  The menu is an homage to, and evolution of, the traditional Quebec rotisserie, a staple of the province's culinary canon.

Starting with the chicken, it is by far the best in town; and that's an understatement.  Served broken down and topped with a sauce Alexandre (butter, white wine, cream) instead of gravy, every bite is juicy, full of flavour and cooked to perfection.  Make sure to order the house's Parker bread rolls; while fabulous in of themselves, you will want them to mop up the last drop of that velvety sauce.

But the menu does not stop here; the rest is a playful take on comfort food classics in addition to a couple of pasta dishes and proteins.  The prime rib served with jus, horseradish and a pickle was a perfect medium rare and simply delicious.

Rounding up the offering are beers, ciders, cocktails, mocktails and (mostly European) wines.  Finally, no visit here is complete without a doughnut, a specialty of the house that gives any doughnut shop a run for its money.

tagged:  GREAT VALUE

The Service

A boisterous dining room does not just entail a loud decibel level; it also means the staff have their work cut out for them.  While our waitress was more than friendly and chatty in demeanor, she did not shy away from showing us how busy she was.

When in the middle of placing our order, following a slight hesitation by one of my buddies regarding what to order, she abruptly left our table saying "be back in a minute" to tend to (I counted them) three other tables and an absence longer than five minutes.  Following that, our drinks did arrive in time; but no food hit the table until a good 45 minutes elapsed.

Past that point, she was exemplary with main dishes, digestifs and desserts; so the lapse – although not easy to dismiss – can be checked off as isolated.  She even went into deep conversation with one of my friends about the doughnuts, what flavours are available on other days, how they're made, how much they go through per day… (I kinda zoned out at that point).

tagged:  OVERWHELMED STAFF SOMETIME TODAY PLEASE

The Verdict

When McKiernan first moved to this locale, its principals envisioned a lunch spot serving the building's tenants in an otherwise-underserved area.  What they ended up with eventually is a gastronomic canteen, a "destination" restaurant drawing everyday folks as well as foodies from all parts of town.

Its unique brand of accessible-yet-gourmand fare combined with its unique setting and moderate price tag award it a "favorite" rating in my books (equivalent to 5 stars, only my second one in the last three years).  I admit, service suffered a bit tonight; but I have been here enough to know this was a one-off.

tagged:  FAVORITE