Somewhere in Between

The Pitch

A restaurant either has an identity or lacks one.  June Buvette, McKiernan, La Spada (three restaurants recently reviewed here)?  Full-on identity; we know what you stand for.  Shaker, Vertigo, ZIBO?  No idea what you are.  Others may be in search of such an identity; but does it matter really?  Who cares if you manage to put butts in seats?

The self-titled Restaurant Limbo likes to play on this idea with its branding, vibe and menu.  Stepping into the (nearly) one-year-old restaurant on this frigid Saturday night, I was surprised to see a full house.  Clearly the cold presents no excuse to honor a reservation here, which is strongly recommended if you want to avoid huddling in this hotspot's entrance.

tagged:  BETTER RESERVE THE WAIT

The Mood

Lying on a residential street corner straddling the line between Little Italy and Mile-Ex, Limbo's small, cozy space fits 20-30 seated diners with an additional 10-12 at the bar.  Taking two stools at the latter, my wife and I got to witness the staff up close and personal.

The dining room boasts wooden surfaces, burgundy colors, a small wine island and a see-through kitchen.  A few pieces of art, irregular-shaped mirrors and a tin ceiling round out the classic-yet-modern feel.  Space is tight, so expect to rub elbows with the savvy crowd of 30-to-40 year olds.

tagged:  PACKED LIKE SARDINES SIT AT THE BAR

The Food

While seasonal menus are commonplace in town, Limbo takes variability to the next level.  The offering can change daily based on market availability and inspiration, as proven by the date printed on the concise menu.  The fare leans French and the wines veer natural.

A custom cocktail list features all of four libations, one of which – slushie trou normand – caught my attention but was alas unavailable due to equipment malfunction.  The house martini – with rice vinegar! – seems very popular given how many I saw being made right in front of me; but I went for something sweet and spicy.

The Cara Cara Mezcalita was a fun and perfect appetite-opening option with mezcal, O.J., lime and habanero.  As we sipped on our first round of drinks, our waitress gave us the choice of sharing 4-6 dishes à la carte or try the surprise tasting menu for $90 a head.  Not feeling too adventurous tonight, we opted for the former; the menu did list a few dishes which were calling my name.

Amuse-Bouche

Amuse-Bouche

$6

$6

Soupe de courge

A cute little bowl – mise en bouche really – of rich Japanese pumpkin soup topped with a dollop of sea urchin cream for that briny, umami factor. A promising apercu of what's to follow.

Starter

Starter

$15

$15

Parfait de foie

A creative play on a frozen parfait made of guinea fowl liver next to thin slices of candied apple with calvados.  Spread and top on the accompanying spelt toast for a burst of salty/tart wow!

Starter

Starter

$22

$22

Omble cru

The only miss tonight.  The menu said raw arctic char but it was in fact seared and browned on the outside.  While the fish tasted great, I found its mild taste masked by the sour cherries.

Main

Main

$28

$28

Cervelle de veau

A masterful dish of silky/earthy calf brain topped with crunchy kohlrabi cubes tossed with crispy greens, the whole thing drizzled with a creamy herb sauce.  Offal does not get better than this.

Main

Main

$46

$46

Magret de canard

Another banger; perfectly-medium-rare slices of duck magret served next to crêpes Suzette, topped with jus and herbs for freshness.  Felt like a quirky, inventive play on Peking duck.

Dessert

Dessert

$16

$16

Mille-feuille

A spectacular end to the evening, a microcosm of everything Limbo is about.  Apples, salted caramel and cheddar(!) for a nutty, earthy touch.  So playful, experimental and delicious!

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING ORIGINAL DRINKS

The Service

The first thing I noticed upon taking my spot at the bar is the large number of folks on shift.  Kitchen aside, I counted 6-7 (insert hand juggle) staffers whose roles seemed blurred between waiter, bartender and busboy.  It may seem like a lot for a 30-40 seater, but these young folks were on top of things.  No need was left unattended thanks to a sense of controlled chaos and camaraderie amid the frenzy.

tagged:  HUSTLE & BUSTLE

The Verdict

The idea behind Limbo and its naming stems from the lives and careers that its principals have followed.  After jumping through several métiers before landing on hospitality, they worked at various restaurants and even opened a couple before settling for Limbo.  This sense of movement and of being on-the-go culminated in a project which shuns stagnation and fitting things into boxes.

Does this make Limbo lacking in identity?  Certainly not; the theme here is about being "in between" – in between neighborhoods, in between decor styles, in between seasons and in between price points.  What's not in limbo is my verdict; this was a great dinner at a decent price in a fun setting on a harsh winter's night.

tagged:  SOLID

Price per person:  $55.50