Greek Country-Side Charm

The Pitch

Tucked in one of the city's hippest streets is a Greek café/food counter named Kouzina Niata.  The two-year-old Saint-Viateur locale is a reminder of Mile-End's Greek heritage, even if the neighborhood has gone through waves of gentrification and demographic changes in recent years.

Named after the owner's village of origin, whose family has been part of the Mile-End tapestry for decades, Niata is a genuine product of its neighborhood's past and identity.  Today I dropped by for lunch on this rainy Sunday (on invitation) – far from the Grand Prix crowds – to sample some of the house's specialties.

tagged:  WEEKEND LUNCH

The Mood

A grab-and-go spot does not get any prettier than this!  Decked out by designer extraordinaire Zébulon Perron, Niata evokes classic Milanese caffès thanks to its green/earthy tones and vintage stools.  A seat at the bar-height counter by the window affords a great view of the action on Saint-Viateur – not to mention fabulous lighting for photography!

Further inside, you can catch a glimpse of the artisans at work in the see-through kitchen.  One gets a palpable impression of the bond this spot has created with the Greek community; one woman claiming to us she drives all the way down from Laval to pick up her favorite items for the week.

tagged:  CHATTERBOX CORNER COMMUNITY PICK

The Food

Between the freshly-baked goods displayed on the counter and the packaged meals lining the fridge across, the ready-to-eat and to-go options at Niata are plentiful.  There is an emphasis on baked goods and pastries such as spanakopita and tiropita on the savoury side in addition to baklava and bougatsa on the sweet end.

More comforting, hot options are also available such as lentil soup, moussaka and feta/spinach-stuffed chicken.  Everything is prepared following family tradition and made in-house, including the phyllo dough.  The messaging says "country-style" cooking but since I'm not Greek and won't pretend I know what that means, I'll stick to "home-style" instead.

The Verdict

From the beautiful décor and welcoming vibe to the emphasis on family and tradition, Niata is clearly a passion project come true.  By honoring their roots and the recipes passed down by their parents, the folks here have gifted the neighborhood a go-to staple for Greeks and others alike.

The palette is mediterranean and homey while the savoir-faire and flavours are there.  And I haven't mentioned their coffees and other hot drinks, which are another important part of the offering here.