Safe Choice for Cantonese

The Pitch

The commercial/residential stretch of Côte-des-Neiges clustered around the intersection of Victoria and Van Horne avenues is one of the most ethnically diverse in town.  Amid the Filipino grocer, Bengali butcher, kosher fishmonger and (of course) Western Union is a revered Chinese restaurant known as Kam Shing.

The lesser known of the two restaurants carrying the same name (the other one a mere five minutes away by car), this Van Horne branch is still a neighborhood fixture among locals.  Tonight I hit it up with my family to enjoy a casual, comforting Sunday dinner.

tagged:  SUNDAY NIGHT

The Mood

Clearly mine was not the only family on the premises tonight.  Most tables were occupied by gatherings of single or extended families.  The crowd's ethnic composition was as (if not more) diverse than the surroundings outside; Asian, Indian, Jewish and black all made an appearance.

Décor is minimal and classic, if a little dated.  Large, round polyester-covered tables sit atop red-and-white-checkered linoleum flooring with dangling chandeliers above.

tagged:  BRING THE FAMILY

The Food

Kam Shing's menu is not as overwhelming and exhausting as some of its peers'.  All the Cantonese specialties fit on one page, with an additional small section of Szechuan staples occupying the back page.  Portions are medium to large and mains are priced around $20 each, delivering good value for your money.  The fare is standard grade with nothing much standing out and a couple of plates falling short.

The hot and sour soup was thick, spicy and excellent, while beef with Chinese broccoli and Cantonese noodles delivered on flavour and crunchiness.  Less successful were oily vegetable rolls and shrimp toasts, not-the-least-bit crunchy or sticky General Tao chicken and overly-sauced sweet and sour shrimp lacking any bite or firmness.

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING

The Service

A couple of items were out for the night, but our waiter was quick to suggest alternatives.  He also substituted pork from a couple of dishes for us.  Helpful, quick and chatty with the kids; he even threw in a handful of extra fortune cookies for the little ones.  A nice touch, although mine are past the age when that's considered exciting.

The Verdict

My first visit at the C.D.N. location being too far back to recall, not to mention I cannot comment as to the connection between the two restaurants, I will base my opinion purely on tonight's dinner.  Kam Shing is a reliable option for traditional, affordable Cantonese; and is clearly popular with the area's denizens.

A more scrutinizing diner with a finer palate will easily conclude they can find better fare elsewhere.  But, for the general public, this is a "safe" choice for a family dinner which does not involve a trip to Chinatown.

tagged:  PLAN B.

3

Price per person:  $25.69