The Michelin Effect?

The Pitch

A Michelin star is arguably the most prestigious accolade a restaurant can receive on the international scene.  Both highly coveted all while being shrouded in mystery, it holds the power to completely transform a recipient's fortunes.

The guide's arrival in Montreal last year was a huge affair in industry circles, although I personally feel ambivalent about it.  Why should we let a foreign entity with a narrow-minded view of gastronomy dictate to us what's good versus not?  That said, I can understand its draw and significance for the lucky and hard-working few who get recognized.

After only three stars were awarded to Montreal last year, this year a paltry two more were added – big whoop!  One of these went to Hoogan et Beaufort, the acclaimed Rosemont restaurant set up in the Angus Shops development now known as Technopôle Angus.

Helmed by renowned chef Marc-André Jetté, who made a name for himself at the defunct Laloux and Les 400 Coups, this hotspot has been booked solid for weeks on end since nabbing its prized star.  It didn't matter that tonight was a Sunday, typically a slow service; the locale was abuzz and full!

tagged:  BETTER RESERVE SUNDAY NIGHT

The Mood

For its tenth anniversary, Hoogan et Beaufort gave itself a makeover last year.  This being my first time here, I have no comparison notes; what I saw was a spacious, light-filled post-industrial space with towering ceilings.

The unique layout centers around a U-shaped bar which gives a direct view into the open kitchen and fire pit (the house's raison d'être).  Lying to either side of the bar are dining areas with enough seating for 60 or so diners.

Aside from filling up your tables every night of the week, one of a Michelin star's knock-off effects is to the type of client it draws.  Our waiter corroborated this; while Sundays used to be quiet and reserved to neighborhood folks, today the crowd included foodies, yuppies, a birthday celebration and even a 20-seater of dudes!

The Food

For his passion project, chef Jetté went for a wood-fire cooking concept.  The menu blends market with nouvelle cuisines and features local/seasonal ingredients.  One can go with either a tasting menu of five courses for $125 – not a bad price – or à la carte – starters in the $20s, mains in the $40s.

It is often said that a restaurant's prices go up 25% upon claiming its first Michelin star, but it seems that has not happened here.  An extensive wine list is also available in addition to some by the glass and a selection of cocktails – all also reasonably priced.

We went à la carte, and got started with a palate-opening amuse-bouche on the house.  We asked our waiter to break up our order into four services: oysters and focaccia, asparagus and sweetbreads, ravioli and lamb, ending with dessert.

Everything was delicious, showed a certain level of mastery and precision and showcased both technique and ingredient.  Presentations were pristine, flavours were balanced and textures were varied.  Crunchy asparagus lay like four fingers and were topped with brioche croutons, wild garlic and crushed hazelnuts.  Luscious sweetbreads were nested inside glazed veggies and veal jus.

Fatty lamb medallions sat atop their jus next to droplets of smoked yogurt (could have used more of those).  Popping ricotta ravioli were topped with buttered lobster and flower-shaped zucchini slices.  It's all perfect or near perfect, but of course, I have to pick some nits.

The grilled focaccia was excellent with its whipped butter, but wasn't really a focaccia.  Dessert was a letdown; a hard-to-describe green apple concoction was too tart and sour on the tongue and had an off-putting gelatinous texture.  Finally, while not a bad thing per se, I could not discern any smoky or woodsy flavours.  Everything was grilled to perfection, but that element of feu de bois was absent.

The Service

One of the hallmarks of a Michelin-grade restaurant is the multitude of personnel both in the front and back of the house.  While Hoogan & Beaufort "suffered" from this, it was well within agreeable and non-intrusive limits.  A hostess greeted us, a waiter took our order and a second one delivered our dishes.  All three were warm, approachable, diligent, present and efficient.

No sign of the all-too-serious brigade of waiters serving and explaining each dish and its elements piecemeal while I internally ask myself: can I just eat?  Food restrictions were addressed, every tasting of a wine-by-the-glass was offered to both of us, dishes were explained without overkill… this is upscale dining without the fuss.

The Verdict

Hoogan et Beaufort has been a popular and critical success since its opening over a decade ago.  It did not need a Michelin star for validation, but there is no denying what an achievement it is to land one.  Now the mission turns to maintaining this star or aiming for a second one, an even taller task.

Having tried a handful of starred restaurants in Paris, a couple in New York and one in Quebec City, I can attest that H&B displays a lot of the good traits associated with those while foregoing some of the negative/obnoxious ones.  In a sense, the folks here did Michelin à la Montreal without pandering to a foreign standard of excellence.

From my side, I would like to come back and try their tasting menu to experience more of the deliciousness and sophistication I did tonight, and hopefully more smoky flavours and a better dessert.

Price per person:  $82.50