Dieci Anni, Con-graziella-zioni!

The Pitch

Ten years feels like an eternity in the volatile restauration business.  Some spots reach this milestone amid much fanfare; others manage to do so under the radar.  Then there's Old Montreal's Graziella, which will be celebrating its ten-year anniversary later this year while keeping a relatively low profile yet drawing critical acclaim.

The Mood

Birthdays are as good an occasion as any to splurge – don't ask my age – and boy does Graziella fit the bill.  At a time when fine dining establishments are growing increasingly casual, the McGill Street locale is still pushing formally-attired waitstaff, subdued music and white table linens.  All of this naturally translates into a crowd more mature than what we have come to expect at trendier spots.

tagged:  SPECIAL OCCASION

The Food

A concise, ingredient-driven menu is split into antipasti, primi and secondi sections; with 3-4 options under each.  Dishes are a tad expensive, but the sophistication, execution and plating more than justify the price tag.

Antipasti

Antipasti

$15

$15

Fiore di Zucca

A sort of tempura of Lebanese zucchinis stuffed with smooth, creamy ricotta resulting in a delicate balance of flavours and play on textures; splendido!

Primi

Primi

$28

$28

Cappelletti

Perfectly-al dente hat-shaped pasta shells were filled with ricotta and mint and came swimming in a rich, salty, cheesy tomato sauce; another winner.

Primi

Primi

$32

$32

Spaghetti all'Astice

We are instantly drawn to any dish that combines lobster with spaghetti but this one – although cooked flawlessly – needed a little boost from the tomato sauce/bisque.

Secondi

Secondi

$37

$37

Controfiletto di Manzo

A beautifully-plated dish featured roasted veggies with a nicely-charred sirloin steak full of flavour and – unfortunately – an impossibly-tough vein running through it.

The Service

A snazzy setting and refined fare call for capable, polished service.  Our sharp, young waiter was up to the task; displaying professionalism without being too uptight.  Our only complaint regards a twenty-minute delay before we were given menus after grabbing a table.  We understand this is common practice in certain European countries, but last time I checked: we're in North America!

The Verdict

Our first dinner at Graziella was a pleasure; the chic room, sharp service and soigné food rose up to the – birthday – occasion.  Despite our minor quibbles with a couple plates and that unnecessary wait, there is no denying this ristorante is making the case for fine dining as a category, in the face of its steady decline.  Here's to another ten years or more!

tagged:  DESERVES A RETRY

Price per person:  $47.33