To My Surprise

The Pitch

Let me open up this review with an unpopular statement: I am not a fan of izakayas!  As much as I love Japanese restaurants, I so far have not been wowed by the casual variety pushing drinks and small plates known as izakayas.

It could very well be that I have simply not stumbled on a winner among the half dozen I have tried in Montreal over the years.  Today, that would unexpectedly change after I accepted an invitation at the spanking-new Edo.

The Mood

Open for only a month now, Edo is located steps away from Marché Jean-Talon, which should help draw in some foot traffic during the market's peak hours.  As for today, only one other table was occupied at noon on this unexpectedly chilly Wednesday; although delivery orders were in effect.

Named for the city of Tokyo's former title, Edo's interior is a mosaic of materials, textures and colors.  Black painted walls encapsulate a tiled counter, a wood-clad prep area and a dozen tables; and act as backing for cool/quirky mural art of samurais and other Japanese iconography.

The Food

Up until today, my expectations for Edo were unfairly low; I never do research on a restaurant ahead of time and had not heard or read anything about it anywhere.  Wow, was I wrong about this or what?  A quick glance of the menu reveals it revolves around three categories: tapas-style nibbles, makis and rice bowls.

Our hosts were gracious enough to let us pick anything we wanted, but also threw in the most expensive dish on the menu.  That came in the form of a $25 whole grilled squid which followed our two tasty but not-hot-enough miso soups.  The calamari were sliced into beautifully-squishy rings which went perfectly with the accompanying sharp coriander dip.

Veggie gyozas and a fried salmon/tuna maki roll were just OK, but everything marveled from this point forward.  A skewer of three pan-seared jumbo scallops was a doozy and a chicken katsu oyakodon bowl featured expertly-crisped fried chicken strips atop dashi-simmered rice mixed with chopped shallots.

Last but certainly not least, a giant 8-piece maki roll housed lobster salad, avocado and tempura, then garnished with a pile of minced pollock and scallop and finally torched table-side.  Topped with tobiko and shallots then drizzled with soy sauce and spicy mayo, this was the most satisfying and chopstick-worthy maki I have had all year.

$5.95

$5.95

Seafood Miso Soup

$8.95

$8.95

Hota Katsu

$24.95

$24.95

Yaki Ika

$9.95

$9.95

Dragon Eye

$7.95

$7.95

V.G. Gyoza

$15.95

$15.95

Tori Katsu Oyakodon

$18.95

$18.95

Hokkaido Maki

tagged:  FEAST FOR THE EYES GOOD FOR SHARING

The Verdict

Today's fantastic lunch proved it was not izakayas per se I cared little for, but rather that none of them had won me over until now.  From its colorful/zen décor to its delicious food and beautiful presentations as well as dishware, Edo was a surprising discovery that bears the hallmarks of a neighborhood gem.  As much as I am raving about it, I cannot award it a final score yet.

My hesitation stems from the lack of a bar here (although drink options abound), which makes me question what the nighttime mood looks like.  Given that izakayas are supposed to libate as much as feed, the absence of a bar may take a couple of points away if it meant a quiet vibe.  Until this is settled, I am placing Edo on my list of current crushes!

tagged:  DESERVES A RETRY

Price per person:  $29