In the Family Since 2005

The Pitch

People fall into the restaurant business for various reasons.  Some choose it as a career path during their teenage or early adult years, while others are born into it due to family history.  Such was the case for Jun Ho Bong – and his mother – whose grandmother opened the city's first Korean restaurant back in 1989.

After selling Korea House, madame Bong picked Chinatown for her second restaurant in 2003.  Only two years after that, her daughter would open a second location of Chez Bong downtown in the Shaughnessy Village neighborhood, which she currently runs with her son Jun Ho.  Today I was invited by the latter to try this longstanding family-run Korean restaurant situated in a Mackay Street greystone.

The Mood

Walking up the stairs under the Chez Bong awning lands you in a dining space which preserves the house's historic character.  Original details such as hard-wood floors, crown mouldings and a fireplace are all still present.  The small crowd on this Tuesday afternoon mostly consisted of work colleagues on their break.

The Food

With a long, elaborate menu full of options from noodles and rice dishes to pork/chicken specialties and side dishes, we let our host curate our lunch for us.  He started us off with a refreshing homemade yuzu drink which tasted sweet and citrusy with a hint of fermentation.

That was followed by a cold noodle soup which he insisted on us trying (despite my hesitation).  Not a fan of cold soups in general, this one did not sway me over.  While I did enjoy the elements from cucumbers and pickled radishes to Asian pears and noodles, the chunks of icy broth with its sweet and salty flavour just wasn't for me – at least I tried something new!

With that out of the way, it was time to dive into the smorgasbord in front of us.  From sweet potato japchae with beef and marinated beef bulgogi to shrimp tempura and tteokbokki rice cakes in spicy sauce, the display in front of us epitomized family-style soul food.  Stealing the show and topping all of this was a giant cut-up Korean pancake lathered in kimchi and served with a savoury/sour dipping sauce.

tagged:  GOOD FOR SHARING

The Verdict

Asian food has been going through a rejuvenation for the better part of the 21st century.  From poke bowls and Korean fried chicken to Japanese pancakes and robot waiters, this space seems in constant flux.  These trends will ebb and flow, while true-to-the-roots establishments will remain.

Chez Bong's two locations have weathered two recessions, a global pandemic and other pressures facing the restaurant world.  Instead of reinvention, marketing, following trends and gimmicks, madame Bong and her progeny rely on forty years of running restaurants, word of mouth and know-how to survive and thrive.

Price per person:  $29.65