An Italian Bistro if Ever There Was One

The Pitch

Earlier this summer, I tried and reviewed Saint-Henri Italian hotspot Figata.  At the time, I was not aware that one of the principals there, Steve Marcone, was also behind the popular, longstanding Bistro Amerigo in N.D.G.  Tonight, my wife and I decided to hit up the latter, which is famous for not taking reservations and drawing lineups on the regular.

The late-summer weather being beautiful, we did not mind waiting the 20 minutes communicated to us – which became 5 minutes – outside while taking in the sights and sounds of Monkland Village.  If like me, you've ever wondered what an "Italian bistro" is, read on…

tagged:  CAN'T RESERVE WAIT IN LINE

The Mood

To describe Amerigo's interior and vibe, imagine a cozy Italian home during a frenetic dinner party.  The walls around the bar are shelved with pantry items and bottles of wine, while those opposite are adorned with a hodgepodge of Italian/American pop culture and kitschy posters.

The crowd is typically anglophone and composed of families with young kids on the patio and a mix of couples and friends inside.  Be ready for a total loss of privacy if you opt to sit in the latter; spaces are tight and your conversation will surely be heard by your neighbors – just like at a house party!

tagged:  ANGLO CROWD PACKED LIKE SARDINES

The Food

The menu at Amerigo resembles that at Figata; both revolve around simple dishes following family recipes.  The only overlapping item are the famous meatballs, concocted by owner Steve's father, whom the restaurant is named after (nothing to do with Americana).  And yes, those polpette are a must with their fluffiness and zesty sauce.

A plate of sliced bread from neighboring bakery La Meunerie Urbaine was generously doused with olive oil; and was happily used to sop up any leftover meatball sauce.  Main dishes are all preceded by a green salad on the house, so starters are not needed here unless you're a pig like me.

Moving on to mains, the rigatoni alla norma marveled thanks to perfectly-roasted and charred eggplant, vibrantly-acidic tomato sauce and shavings of ricotta.  That was my wife's plate, which made me jealous because my pappardelle bolognese was heavily salted.  That said, it was totally redeemed by al dente ribbons and generous veal ragù.

The Service

Despite the commotion and bundles of people at the door waiting to be seated, we did not feel pressured to pick whatever first became available.  The waitress gave us options and accommodated us nicely.  That said, she did disappear on us for fifteen minutes after seating us and handing us menus.

Past that point, everything went well, from help with the menu and wines to prompt service.  I do have to take some points off for drinks; my negroni came with the saddest-looking, dryest slice of lemon and our red wines were at a non-ideal room temperature.

The Verdict

Open since 2010, Bistro Amerigo has clearly struck a chord with N.D.G. denizens, giving them a reliable neighborhood eatery and gathering spot.  While Figata is very in right now, drawing the moneyed, glitterati crowd, Amerigo is more a cozy spot perfect for affordable everyday eating.  Our bill for the night – $130 after taxes for two starters, two mains and three drinks – is a testament to that.

Now you know what an Italian bistro is…

tagged:  SOLID

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Price per person:  $38